Fairings - Help on removal please.

[LowEnd]

Hi guys and gals, 

I received my bar risers today but the install requires removal of the front fairing.

Has anyone done this and if so what are the tricks and traps?

NB.  I'm having some serious ergonomic challenges with the Tiger and a bar riser is the final throw of the dice.

[fred_jb]

The fairing consists of many interlocking parts, but I can't imagine why you would need to remove the entire thing, in fact it is difficult to see why you would have to remove any of it just to fit bar risers. Maybe the issue is to do with getting access to arrange more slack on the cables, but I would have thought even that would not require removing the whole fairing.

Maybe taking the screen off would improve access, and then the black inner fairing panels. To get these off first take out the two fasteners in the black panel at the front of the tank. If these are plastic clips then remove as per the following. This panel then slides up and out which exposes a plastic clip at the rear of each of the inner panels. Push on the centres of these clips with something like a small screwdriver to unlock them after which they can be easily removed.  No need to prise them out if you do that. Just remember to push the central pins up before reinserting and then push the pins flush again to lock them back in.

The inner panels can now be wiggled and pulled gently towards the forks at their rear end to unclip and then slide out.  Note how the front ends of these panels interlock with the rest of the inner fairing and when reassembling get that part correctly positioned before clicking the rear part back into position.

While reinforcing the screen mounts to stop the screen flapping about, I have also removed the upper side/front painted panels in order to remove the panel to which the screen mounts.  However this would be difficult to describe in a post and I don't see that it would be particularly helpful with your problem.

I hope that is of some help.

[LowEnd]

Thanks Fred. The issue is that the bar riser fits at the bottom of the handlebar bracket and not the top (as I was expecting).  This means that I have to get to the bolts that face upwards from underneath the bar bracket. These two bolts are also torqued to 40nm so I need to use a full length spanner.

The riser is from SW Motech so beware if you're buying one that it's not a simple top mount installation.

I've booked the bike in to my local shop to do the work but it's going to cost at least a couple of hundred A$ so I'm not keen to do that on the chance that risers will fix my ergo problem. They can't do the job for a couple of weeks so I thought I'd give it another crack.

[fred_jb]

Originally Posted by LowEnd

Thanks Fred. The issue is that the bar riser fits at the bottom of the handlebar bracket and not the top (as I was expecting).  This means that I have to get to the bolts that face upwards from underneath the bar bracket. These two bolts are also torqued to 40nm so I need to use a full length spanner.

The riser is from SW Motech so beware if you're buying one that it's not a simple top mount installation.

I've booked the bike in to my local shop to do the work but it's going to cost at least a couple of hundred A$ so I'm not keen to do that on the chance that risers will fix my ergo problem. They can't do the job for a couple of weeks so I thought I'd give it another crack.

Sounds like a poor design then!  All the bar risers I have fitted have simply involved fixing the risers under the bars using the bolt holes for the original clamps and then bolting the original bar clamps to the risers.

I am not with my bike at the moment so can't look but it sounds like the position precludes you from getting a socket on the bolts. The bike already has risers compared with the Trident 660 it is based on, so I assume the problem has something to do with this.

[LowEnd]

I've been looking at it again and yes, I believe that it's a poor design choice. That said, it may have been that they thought a top down design would have been structurally weaker given that the bars are already on stalks. In my mind it would almost be easier to fit different bars rather than the risers.

I had a long think and decided that because this is essentially a test to fix my ergo issues it's not worth the trouble or expense,  you never know, higher bars might make the experience worse!  So it's on to ebay for the risers.

[J-G]

I recently installed Rox pivoting risers (2" with vibration isolation).  20 minute install, one tool.
I find the Rox pivoting risers are the way to go since they are adjustable.   Have them on my R1250gs and had them on my street triple.

[LowEnd]

Originally Posted by J-G

I recently installed Rox pivoting risers (2" with vibration isolation).  20 minute install, one tool.
I find the Rox pivoting risers are the way to go since they are adjustable.   Have them on my R1250gs and had them on my street triple.

Where were you a month ago!?  Thanks for the advice, I'm going to order a set now. The rox design is what I was expecting when I got in touch with SW MOTECH in Germany when they were in pre production. I guess I should have asked more questions.

[MHorn]

here is a German solution coming end of September:

https://voigt-mt.de/Handlebar-riser-with-offset-for-Triumph-Tiger-Sport-660-2022-30mm-higher-and-20mm-closer