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Messages - fred_jb

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I like the look of the Triumph luggage, including the top box, but have only bought the panniers as I had a Shad SH58X expanding top box which I wanted to use. I like this because in its smallest setting it looks a bit sleeker than most other top boxes, but can be expanded to take two helmets.  I painted the top panel to match the bike. The colour match is good which was the most important thing to me, though the finish I achieved was nowhere near as glossy as the paintwork on the bike. I was able to line up the Shad base plate (latest better looking version) with the two front fixing holes on the Triumph rack but had to use some Shad clamp type fittings at the back. I later drilled two additional holes in the rack so that I could bolt down the rear of the plate more neatly.

Tiger Sport 660 Main Chat / Re: resetting the service indicator
« on: Aug 12, 2022, 11.37 pm »
Thanks for the explanation, and I have also seen a YT video of someone doing this, and once they select the mileage a calendar then pops up to allow a date to be selected. Mine doesn't do this, just automatically sets the date one year on from the current click setting.

Maybe my software is not the latest, or possibly I am missing something in the menus, so will have another try at some point.

The final installment! I decided that while I was on a roll with this I would also reinforce the central fixing of the screen carrier panel as I had thought of a reasonably simple way to do this. As standard this central fixing just links with a plastic pin to an extension coming off the thin panel which extends across the back of the instrument panel.  This is not strong enough to stop the screen moving, but just the reverse, as movement of the screen just shakes the instrument panel, which does not seem like a good thing.

I decided to cut this off and replace it with a steel bracket (see pic 1) bolted onto the strongest part of the plastic near to where it bolts to the metal frame extension (see pic 2). This also meant cutting off a plastic bracket supporting the wiring loom which was in the way, but as a replacement I put a hole in the new metal bracket to take the fastener which supports the loom.

I then put a captive nut on the screen mounting panel (see pic 3) so that the plastic pin could be replaced with a bolt through the new bracket giving it a very strong support while decoupling the instrument panel from any screen vibrations.

Pic 1

Pic 2

Pic 3

Modifications, Accessories, and Appearance / Re: Center stand
« on: Aug 12, 2022, 12.57 pm »
That looks good, and I particularly like the clever way of tensioning the spring as these springs are usually a nightmare to install.  They may need to produce a new version for the TS660 as I think there are some differences between the bikes.

The only downside is that it is going to push the footrests out a bit making it that bit harder to hit the brake pedal and shift lever. I already find these a bit short and have extended the brake pedal, but not yet found a suitable extension for the shift lever.

This may just be a prototype, but the finish doesn't look very durable, so I would probably have it powder coated if I bought one.

Edit:  Just checked, and the brake pedal is on the same carrier as the footpeg, so the spacing between them will be the same as before.  However this is not the case for the shift lever so the reach to that will be affected by the footpeg moving further out.

Just got back from a test ride and it's a massive improvement, better than I had hoped, so I don't think any further bracing will be needed.  I had the bike up to 80 mph and was also in the turbulent air behind a bus for a while but there was virtually no movement of the screen, and this was with my satnav phone on its Quadlock mount attached to the screen handle, so adding to the weight. The screen is the Powerbronze 690mm with an additional deflector mounted on it.

*Originally Posted by mc_660T [+]
Can you share the brake pedal part… I understand you modified it to fit, but I like the one you chose. Thanks!

The original listing has gone, but I'm sure this one is the same:

What I did was hacksaw off the entire back of the thing leaving just a flat plate.  I then made a couple of holes in it to line up with two of the slots in the brake pedal.  A bit tricky because of the serrations on the surface but got it done and used a bit of black paint to touch up the surface where the drilling had damaged the finish slightly.

I hope that helps.   :002:

OK, I've done a first stage of strengthening the mounting of the panel which supports the screen.  I've done this by bolting it to the lower plastic panel which it sits on top of and which is quite strong as it supports the headlights. This lower panel is also bolted to the metal frame extension between the fork legs.  I've used a couple of stainless steel brackets which I had from another project.  These are quite thick and very stiff, so much so that I struggled to open them up to the angle I needed.  I bolted these to the lower plastic panel  and put a captive nut on the other end of the bracket for bolting on the screen mounting panel while allowing it to still be easily removed.

The tricky part was drilling holes in the plastic panels in the correct place as you only get one chance at that! Marker pen, ruler, and even some bluetack was used to establish the hole positions and fortunately I ended up with the holes drilled accurately, though the captive nuts can move a lttle which gives some leeway. The pics below show the new brackets in position and the screen mount panel bolted on.  I ran out of black bolts but have ordered some more so will be able to replace the silver ones to make the mod less noticeable.

It feels much stiffer now, but if I find that there is still too much movement while riding it would be fairly easy to add futher reinforcement in the form of metal brackets from the frame extension between the fork legs to positions on the lower panel near to where the new brackets are fitted, and I would not need to do any disassembly for that.

I mentioned in another screen thread that my tall Powerbronze screen was moving so much at high speed, especially when passing trucks, that I thought the bottom fixing had come undone.  I have also had the self lowering problem that others are experiencing, though have fixed that with some locks in the slots the top fixings run in, though the solution suggested by Wulfkind of rubber washers around the lower screen fixing works just as well and is much easier to do.

I decided to investigate further as I am not happy with how much the screen flexes, which seems to be mostly due to flex in the fairing parts it is attached to, rather than the screen itself bending. I have now managed to dismantle the front plastics sufficiently to see why the screen fixings allow so much movement. Basically, all three screen fixings attach to a single plastic panel (see pic below). This panel is reasonably rigid, but is only loosely fastened to the rest of the all plastic fairing assembly, which itself is only fastened to the metal frame at one point. It is now obvious to me why there is a problem with bigger aftermarket screens as the whole screen fixing arrangement is rather under-engineered and not structurally sound in my opinion.

In the picture you can see two locating prongs towards the bottom of the panel. These hold the lower part of the panel in place but only clip loosely into slots in another internal plastic panel. Further up above the gear wheel locking mechanism there are three further fixing points. The central one just uses one of the plastic pins to clip to an extension to the plastic panel behind the instrument panel, but these are always quite loose fitting and don't provide much resistance to movement. The other two fixing points are the holes on either side which take the bolts which can be seen below the slots that take the top fixings of the screen.  However, these bolts do not connect to anything very solid as they just screw into a captive nut on the upper painted panels which cover the side and front of the fairing.  These painted panels are themselves only held in position by captive nuts and bolts from other plastic parts.

Basically the three screen fixings are all supported (badly) by a single plastic panel which is probably the least solidly mounted piece of the whole fairing!  Really not a good base for mounting a windscreen in my opinion. I am looking at the possibility of reinforcing the screen mount panel with some metals bars and bolting these to the frame extension between the fork legs. Not simple due to the complex shape of the plastic panel, but may be possible, and would give a lot more rigidity to the screen mounting points.

Incidentally, on examining how the locking mechanism works I can see that my previous idea that the excessive flexing was what allowed to screen to unlock and drop is probably wrong. The rotation of the gear wheel which allows the lower screen fixing to move up and down the geared track is controlled and resisted by a detent mechanism consisting of two sprung ball bearings one at the top and one at the bottom of the gear wheel, which probably has a series of hollows which determine the stable positions where the bearings can sit. It requires a certain amount of force for the bearings to be forced back allowing the wheel to turn to the next stable position. Given that this is how it works, it is pretty obvious that the additional G force generated when the bike is jolted hard is enough to overcome this mechanism and allow the screen to drop by one or more positions for each heavy jolt.

*Originally Posted by mc_660T [+]
I ordered the Low comfort seat after getting the bike since it's a bit tall for me, but it made no difference. I am just shy of flat footing the bike when standing nearest the tank where the seat is narrow. I found the low seat only reduced the already skimpy padding and lowered the rear part of the seat, but did nothing to help me get anymore clearance. I returned it (and paid almost $50 US shipping to send it back). I'd like to find a better made aftermarket. Also, the seat is extremely tight and difficult to click into place... was wondering if others are experiencing this.

The fix is basically to move the latch mechanism slightly backwards by putting one or two washers between the latch and the metalwork it bolts on to. I found that the standard seat requires one washer on each bolt but the slightly differently shaped comfort seat required two.  Other people have done the same with success, and there is a thread on here somewhere about it.  You still need to give the back of the seat a little shove to get it to latch but the unlocking with the key becomes easier.  Before I did this it was very difficult to unlock, risking bending the key.

Tiger Sport 660 Main Chat / Re: Screen dropping down
« on: Aug 09, 2022, 06.01 pm »
*Originally Posted by domoincan [+]
Interestingly my screen drops quite frequently on certain bumpy roads around here ... but in 2000 kms on my recent trip, my screen only partially dropped twice.   :084:

I think the reason is that the bumps cause flexing of the screen against its mounts and I think that somehow unloads the locking mechanism momentarily, allowing the screen to drop, though as already mentioned this is more likely with a larger screen and/or attachments such as a GPS or phone mount where the amount of flexing will be greater. If it was simply the weight overcoming the locking mechanism it would happen all the time, even when the bike was parked.

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