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Topics - fred_jb

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I mentioned in another screen thread that my tall Powerbronze screen was moving so much at high speed, especially when passing trucks, that I thought the bottom fixing had come undone.  I have also had the self lowering problem that others are experiencing, though have fixed that with some locks in the slots the top fixings run in, though the solution suggested by Wulfkind of rubber washers around the lower screen fixing works just as well and is much easier to do.

I decided to investigate further as I am not happy with how much the screen flexes, which seems to be mostly due to flex in the fairing parts it is attached to, rather than the screen itself bending. I have now managed to dismantle the front plastics sufficiently to see why the screen fixings allow so much movement. Basically, all three screen fixings attach to a single plastic panel (see pic below). This panel is reasonably rigid, but is only loosely fastened to the rest of the all plastic fairing assembly, which itself is only fastened to the metal frame at one point. It is now obvious to me why there is a problem with bigger aftermarket screens as the whole screen fixing arrangement is rather under-engineered and not structurally sound in my opinion.

In the picture you can see two locating prongs towards the bottom of the panel. These hold the lower part of the panel in place but only clip loosely into slots in another internal plastic panel. Further up above the gear wheel locking mechanism there are three further fixing points. The central one just uses one of the plastic pins to clip to an extension to the plastic panel behind the instrument panel, but these are always quite loose fitting and don't provide much resistance to movement. The other two fixing points are the holes on either side which take the bolts which can be seen below the slots that take the top fixings of the screen.  However, these bolts do not connect to anything very solid as they just screw into a captive nut on the upper painted panels which cover the side and front of the fairing.  These painted panels are themselves only held in position by captive nuts and bolts from other plastic parts.

Basically the three screen fixings are all supported (badly) by a single plastic panel which is probably the least solidly mounted piece of the whole fairing!  Really not a good base for mounting a windscreen in my opinion. I am looking at the possibility of reinforcing the screen mount panel with some metals bars and bolting these to the frame extension between the fork legs. Not simple due to the complex shape of the plastic panel, but may be possible, and would give a lot more rigidity to the screen mounting points.

Incidentally, on examining how the locking mechanism works I can see that my previous idea that the excessive flexing was what allowed to screen to unlock and drop is probably wrong. The rotation of the gear wheel which allows the lower screen fixing to move up and down the geared track is controlled and resisted by a detent mechanism consisting of two sprung ball bearings one at the top and one at the bottom of the gear wheel, which probably has a series of hollows which determine the stable positions where the bearings can sit. It requires a certain amount of force for the bearings to be forced back allowing the wheel to turn to the next stable position. Given that this is how it works, it is pretty obvious that the additional G force generated when the bike is jolted hard is enough to overcome this mechanism and allow the screen to drop by one or more positions for each heavy jolt.

I bought an Abba stand for my bike, and this uses metal adaptors to fit over the ends of the swing arm spindle, and lifts the bike without compressing the suspension, unlike when using a normal paddock stand.  It can also be used in conjunction with a wheeled platform so that the bike can be moved around while on the stand for better access in confined spaces.

The only problem I found with this is that there seemed to be no easy way to remove the circular covers over the swing arm pivot, so requiring the whole plastic panel including these covers to be removed to give access. I found that the covers are removable but needed to be rotated to unlatch them so I have done a simple mod to make this much easier.  Basically it consists of a small allen headed bolt in the centre of each cover, secured with a locking nut and some hot melt glue on the back.  Now I can just use an allen key to rotate the covers the unlatch them.  Pics below:

Tiger Sport 660 Main Chat / Software updates
« on: Jul 22, 2022, 08.01 pm »
I had my first service done yesterday and they applied two updates to the bike and one to the Bluetooth module.  The My Triumph app is now reporting the same MPG figure as the instrument panel, which is progress as it used to say something completely different - usually around 23 mpg when the real mpg is between 50 and 60.  I have not noticed any other changes at the moment but will report back if I do.

I also asked them to see if there were any error codes as I had a glitch with the engine a few days ago - it suddenly momentarily lost power while doing about 70 mph in 6th gear. I pulled over but the engine kept running and it hasn't done it again.  No error codes were found so it is a bit of a mystery.  It felt like temporary fuel starvation or possibly an ignition fault.  No error codes were found.

I was originally going to use a Denali PowerHub 2 having checked the dimensions to see if it would fit, but having ordered one I was told that stock would not be available for some time, so cancelled the order.  I then used a relay and terminal blocks to make my own temporary solution, with inline fuseholders in the wiring for each of the accessories I needed to connect. These are: two USB fast chargers, one in each side of the inner fairing, a chain oiler, a front/rear dashcam, and an additional horn powered by a relay triggered off the OEM horn.

I then had a look at other solutions and came across a new version of one I had used several bikes ago.  The old version, which is still being sold by Nippy Normans, was a bit inconvenient for wiring as it didn't provide a separate 0V connection for each 12V output.  The new version does, and like the original model has electronic fuses which just reset themselves once a fault is corrected, though I have left my existing inline fuses in the accessory wiring for the time being, but will probably tidy it up and remove them at some point.  Everything just fits snugly behind the right hand panel below the tank though this fuseblock is a little taller than the Denali one I originally intended to use.

This is the item:

I got the trigger voltage to turn this on from the connector provided on the bike for the Triumph USB adaptor which I didn't use, and the connector for which is located just below where I have put the fuseblock.  I also used this to trigger the dashcam recorder unit. It took a while to find the correct connector to replace the blanking plug on the bike's connector, but I found this one was suitable:

The input to the fuseblock was taken from the battery via a 30 Amp inline fuse, but this connection goes first to a 12V socket which I fitted in the right side of the bike before daisy chaining the wires on to the fuseblock.  I use the 12V socket for connecting a battery charger, and for running a tyre inflator pump, and is the correct side for the latter as the angled valve stems point to the right of the bike.  This socket was tricky to install and had to be pre-wired due to limited access to the back of the panel, but it is just possible to get a couple of fingers around the back to tighten up the retaining ring.

If you have one of the earliest bikes, as I do, might be worth checking the fixings in the black plastic panel at the front of the tank.  Mine had the plastic push pins fitted, but unlike the current bikes which I checked at my dealer the other day, mine were very loose and one was lost on a recent ride. I had already noticed the loose fitting when I had the panel off to add some USB sockets, and found that the holes in the metal bracket behind the panel looked too big hence why the pins were loose.

Looking at this again after losing one of the pins, it looked like the bracket was intended to hold a couple of threaded metal clips so that the panel could be held on with bolts rather than plastic pins.  I suspect that this was a late design change and that some of the early bikes have the bolt compatible brackets. To resolve this I happened to have some of the threaded spring clips and found they fitted perfectly onto the metal bracket, which even has small tabs to hold the clips in position, so have now used a couple of M5 bolts to retain the panel.

Modifications, Accessories, and Appearance / Screen locking mod
« on: May 20, 2022, 01.11 pm »
I have mentioned in other posts that I have had a problem with my larger PowerBronze screen slipping down, and this was preventing me from fitting my phone onto the screen adjustment handle, which would have been the ideal position.  It seems that the screen adjustment does not have a very strong locking mechanism.  Even though it feels quite resistant to moving when you adjust it, the combination of a bit of extra weight with bigger screen and phone, combined with bouncing about on rough road surfaces seems to be enough to have it slip down while riding. I have found on previous bikes that I don't have much need to adjust screen position, as once I have found the optimum position I rarely change it, so I decided to devise a means of locking the screen in position so that it cannot slip down.

After some thought I decided that if I could fit some type of lock, ideally adjustable, into the slots that the top screen supports slide in then this should work.  What I came up with was using some bolts with square sections at the top of the threaded part, commonly called carriage bolts. I ground the heads of the bolts down on two sides such that they would go into the slot when vertical, but could then be turned through 90 degrees so that they would stay in place.  To prevent any danger of dropping into the space behind the slots I forced an undersized rubber washer down the threads (M5 washer on M6 bolt).  As well as retaining the bolt in position this also grips the sides of the slot when the thumb nut and washer are added and tightened up. Not tested on the road yet, but I'm confident that the screen is going nowhere with two of these in position!

The thumb nuts I've used are small plastic ones.  I also have some metal ones but they are larger diameter and don't fit so neatly so will stay with the plastic ones if they prove to be sufficiently robust.  These locks can be positioned anywhere in the slot so the screen will still be able to be positioned in almost the full range of positions, and in theory these locks could be loosened and the screen position changed while riding, but I don't think I will be doing that!


Parts used:

I already owned a SW-Motech Ion One small tank bag and the much larger Ion Three from previous bikes, so was keen to use them on the Tiger 660. I bought the correct Ion tank ring and fitted it to the bike, only to find that the bar clamp in the middle of the bars hit the tank bags as soon as any steering lock is applied.  This is due to the tall OEM bar risers.  After some thought I decided to try raising the bag, and also tilting it back to better conform to the tank shape, by fitting some spacers to the part of the locking mechanism which fits on the underside of the bags, and which engages with the tank ring. I used 2 x 12mm spacers at the front and 1 x 12mm spacers at the rear with a washer top and bottom of each fixing. The locking mechanism also has to be placed as far forward as possible in the recess in the underside of the bags, so as to bring the bags as far back as possible.

This has worked really well, so in case it is useful to anyone else I will post some pictures and details of the parts used.  Note that the bolts holding the rear part of the locking mechanism must not be too long and protrude too far out of the nut or they will stop the bag seating properly and locking. Also, the Ion range of bags is the oldest and cheapest the SW-Motech do.  The also have the Evo and Pro ranges, but these are more expensive and have slimmer mounts so I don't know if this would possible for those.

Ion Three bag on bike

Full lock left

Full lock right

Underside of large bag

Underside of small bag

Small bag on bike

Parts used:

SW-Motech Ion Three

SW-Motech Ion One

QUICK-LOCK Tankring Fiber Reinforced Nylon. Black. TRIUMPH 6 screws TRT.00.475.16000/B
https://www.that auction


M5 Flat Penny Washer Stainless Steel A2 (Pack of 50) Plain Wide Round Metal Stainless Steel Washers for Screws – Certified Standart ISO 7089 DIN 125 M5 (5.3mm x 10mm) : DIY & Tools

M5 (5mm x 50mm) Hex Socket Button Machine Screw (Bolt) - Stainless Steel (A2) (Pack of 20) : DIY & Tools

This link is named wrong but points to the 5mm x 35mm long version which is what is needed.
M5 (5mm x 20mm) Hex Socket Button Head Screws - A2 Grade Stainless Steel (Pack of 20) : DIY & Tools

 M5 (5mm) Nyloc Nut (Type-T) A2 Stainless Steel (Pack of 20) : DIY & Tools

 sourcing map ABS Round Spacer Washer 5.4mm ID 9mm OD 12mm Length for M5 Screws Block Black 250Pcs, for 3D Printer TV Wall Mount Outlet Pegboard Motorbike : DIY & Tools

I don't like the appearance or the feel of the standard footpegs, so they were the first things I changed.

I bought the pegs from Xlmoto, part no 7319P.  I chose the silver ones to match the heel guards on the bike, but they do black ones too.

You also need the mounting brackets, part no 6797N and I got those from MandP here:

The sidestand extension was bought on eBay as suitable for the Trident 660 so I thought it would fit OK which it does. The foot does not fit completely into the hollow in the extension but fits sufficiently well to be able to screw down the top clamping plate.

I had originally found the gear changing awkward, and was never sure I had depressed the pedal sufficiently on downshifts and found it tricky to hook under for upshifts. It seemed to me that the lever was angled much too far downwards, so I adjusted it up and the gear changes are now super smooth and easy in both directions.

The final thing on the controls was to fit a brake lever extension. I don't like the very small brake pedals that lots of bikes have these days and which are easy to miss in the heat of the moment, so have fitted an extension on most of my bikes, and find it makes a real difference. In this case I couldn't find anything specifically for the bike so adapted one I liked the look of.  Basically sawed off the whole back of the thing just leaving a flat plate which I bolted on through the slots in the existing pedal.


New Member Introductions / Hello from Loughborough UK
« on: May 14, 2022, 03.01 pm »
Hi all.  My name is Fred and I'm a 67 year old living near Loughborough in the UK.   I ordered my bike as soon as they were announced and took delivery towards the end of March, though was not allowed to ride it for a further 4 weeks on doctors orders due to a recent operation.  Consequently I've still only got 300 miles on the bike, but have used the time to do lots of mods which I will document in the mods forum.

After doing a lot of two-up European touring with my wife on bigger bikes (Versys 1000, R1200 GS, R1250 GS) my wife pretty much retired from riding pillion following a hip replacement, and I was starting to feel the strain of managing tall heavy bikes, so decided to downsize.  I bought a low mileage 2014 Kawasaki ER-6f to try out the idea and liked it but wanted something more refined and little more powerful, hence the Tiger 660 seemed ideal.   I'm really enjoying the bike and looking forward to completing the running in process.

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